For more pictures follow the below link: http://picasaweb.google.com/tonycesare/BangkokThailand?authkey=Gv1sRgCO2UlPa6yL2wDw&feat=directlink
Where do we start with Thailand? We have only been here a few days and already it is obvious that this is a beautiful, diverse and complex country. Right now we are in Bangkok, the capital and largest city. This is a vibrant and frenetic city of almost 10 million people, dotted by monuments, temples, and over 700 high rises and it is criss-crossed by freeways, sky-trains and canals. We have done our best to keep our bearings and see some sights without being overwhelmed by this fascinating city.
There are some easy conclusions to be made based on just a few days here. For example-- the temples in Bangkok are beautiful and intricate buildings on par with the cathedrals of Europe; the food is de-lic-ious; and the majority of Thais are friendly people with easy and warm smiles – who very well may be trying to take advantage of our tourist naivety.
95% of Thais are Buddhist and have been for over a millennium. The visual testament to this are the numerous temples spread across Bangkok. They are brightly-colored and intricately-decorated. Combined with the ever-present smells from food stalls (and sometimes trash in the streets), it is a total sensory overload. We ventured into two of the best known Wat (meaning ‘temple’ in Thai) in Bangkok; Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho. Wat Phra Kaew is the Kings private temple (Thailand is a Constitutional Monarcy, the current King is the longest serving Monarch in the world) and is famous for housing “The Emerald Buddha”. It is actually Jade, but this does not diminish its beauty. The small Buddha is clothed in different outfits according to the season and is treated with reverence by the local Thais. Wat Phra Kaew is also on the grounds of “The Grand Palace” which is the Royal Residence. On site are a number of additional Buddhist monuments and temples as well as a painted mural depicting Buddhist and Thai stories. A short walk along the river from the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, home to the famous “Reclining Buddha”. At 46 metres (151 ft) long and covered in gold leaf it is an awe inspiring sight; his feet alone are 3 metres (10 ft) long and inlaid with intricate mother-of-pearl carvings. Of course the exterior of the temple was beautifully intricate, as were all the other carvings, buildings and statues on sight. There is honestly too much to take in during a short period and we expect one could live for years in Bangkok without truly appreciating even a small number of temples. One large temple we did not get to go into was Wat Arun or “The temple of the dawn”. This temple has the highest prang (equivalent to a “steeple”) in Bangkok and was for many years the tallest building in town, but we did get to see it from a longboat on the river. Buddhist Monks are also commonly seen and easily visible in their orange robes and shaved heads intermingling with the general population.
Thai food: it is good, it is everywhere, and we have no idea what we can and cannot eat. Given Tony’s bout with food poisoning in the Philippines, Erika’s allergies to seafood and the language barrier, we are hesitant with food stalls. Instead we decided to take food into our own hands, literally, by taking a cooking class. We made four dishes (Rice Crackers with Topping; Pomelo Salad; Massaman Curry with Chicken; Stir-fried chicken with basil) and all were delicious. The course was fun, with 11 likeminded travelers from around the world getting together for a morning over some stoves and woks. The cooks had a good sense of humor and kept us smiling and stir-frying. If you are ever in Bangkok we recommend the Baipai cooking school for an enjoyable experience.
To escape the skyscrapers and concrete of Bangkok we also got out of town for a day on a 40 km bike tour in the countryside outside Bangkok. The area we visited has a large Muslim population and our guide told us that everyone gets along well with temples and Mosques in close proximity, and schools with Muslim children near schools with young Buddhists. The beginning of the ride was a bit treacherous as we had to ride along a 1-meter wide path open on both sides that was elevated about a meter above a canal. Riding a bike on a 1-meter path becomes much more difficult when the platform is elevated high above a dirty canal. Throw in periodic obstacles like trees and people, it was pretty nerve-racking. After one very, very, very close call with Erika and a walker on the path (we thought she was going into the drink) everyone made it out unscathed. After the initial nerves were quelled –when we were off the raised platform -- the ride was easy and we were treated to beautiful countryside, rice patties, local birds, a large water monitor lizard (1.5 meters) and great conversation with our guide. Again, if in Bangkok, “Spiceroads” bike tours is a nice way to spend an enjoyable day outside the city and away from the dreaded “touts”.
Now, a bit about the bad side of Bangkok – all the street hawkers are trying to take advantage of the travelers. We’re not used to having to haggle for everything and we felt quite naïve, as shown by our inability to speak the language and our propensity to look at maps in public places. We have now learned the hard way… no one is really trying to help. Do not trust a cheap Tuk-Tuk (a small scooter like taxi) driver to sell you a ride to “see the sights” – they will only take you to overpriced shops selling crap you don’t want. They will also lie through their teeth to get you into the Tuk-Tuk and will follow and pester you until you acquiesce. Do not trust the guy helping to arrange a long-boat ride on the river --the 1.5 hour ride at a “cheap price” is neither cheap nor 1.5 hours (but enjoyable none the less). Always force the taxi drivers to start the meter and always ask hotel staff for expected prices. Always arrange transport to and from the airport –a 200 Bhat (~ 25 Bhat per Aussie dollar) taxi for locals was 450 Bhat for us. This was cheap compared to the 1500 Bhat originally proffered by numerous drivers telling us it was a “cheap price”. Fear not… we are getting better at haggling and we are a bit more savvy with the locals. We are learning.
Finally, no discussion of Bangkok would be complete without a mention of the sleazy side. “Soi Cowboy” one of the more notorious Red Light districts is between our hotel and the closest subway station. We have walked through it at night a few times. The bright neon lights, and awkward interactions between young Thai girls and creepy white guys is almost amusing, though you always feel like a shower is in order after getting back to the hotel; but maybe that is also the heat, humidity and general grime of this crazy city.
Tomorrow we fly north to Chaing Mai. Elephants anyone?
There are some easy conclusions to be made based on just a few days here. For example-- the temples in Bangkok are beautiful and intricate buildings on par with the cathedrals of Europe; the food is de-lic-ious; and the majority of Thais are friendly people with easy and warm smiles – who very well may be trying to take advantage of our tourist naivety.
95% of Thais are Buddhist and have been for over a millennium. The visual testament to this are the numerous temples spread across Bangkok. They are brightly-colored and intricately-decorated. Combined with the ever-present smells from food stalls (and sometimes trash in the streets), it is a total sensory overload. We ventured into two of the best known Wat (meaning ‘temple’ in Thai) in Bangkok; Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho. Wat Phra Kaew is the Kings private temple (Thailand is a Constitutional Monarcy, the current King is the longest serving Monarch in the world) and is famous for housing “The Emerald Buddha”. It is actually Jade, but this does not diminish its beauty. The small Buddha is clothed in different outfits according to the season and is treated with reverence by the local Thais. Wat Phra Kaew is also on the grounds of “The Grand Palace” which is the Royal Residence. On site are a number of additional Buddhist monuments and temples as well as a painted mural depicting Buddhist and Thai stories. A short walk along the river from the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, home to the famous “Reclining Buddha”. At 46 metres (151 ft) long and covered in gold leaf it is an awe inspiring sight; his feet alone are 3 metres (10 ft) long and inlaid with intricate mother-of-pearl carvings. Of course the exterior of the temple was beautifully intricate, as were all the other carvings, buildings and statues on sight. There is honestly too much to take in during a short period and we expect one could live for years in Bangkok without truly appreciating even a small number of temples. One large temple we did not get to go into was Wat Arun or “The temple of the dawn”. This temple has the highest prang (equivalent to a “steeple”) in Bangkok and was for many years the tallest building in town, but we did get to see it from a longboat on the river. Buddhist Monks are also commonly seen and easily visible in their orange robes and shaved heads intermingling with the general population.
Thai food: it is good, it is everywhere, and we have no idea what we can and cannot eat. Given Tony’s bout with food poisoning in the Philippines, Erika’s allergies to seafood and the language barrier, we are hesitant with food stalls. Instead we decided to take food into our own hands, literally, by taking a cooking class. We made four dishes (Rice Crackers with Topping; Pomelo Salad; Massaman Curry with Chicken; Stir-fried chicken with basil) and all were delicious. The course was fun, with 11 likeminded travelers from around the world getting together for a morning over some stoves and woks. The cooks had a good sense of humor and kept us smiling and stir-frying. If you are ever in Bangkok we recommend the Baipai cooking school for an enjoyable experience.
To escape the skyscrapers and concrete of Bangkok we also got out of town for a day on a 40 km bike tour in the countryside outside Bangkok. The area we visited has a large Muslim population and our guide told us that everyone gets along well with temples and Mosques in close proximity, and schools with Muslim children near schools with young Buddhists. The beginning of the ride was a bit treacherous as we had to ride along a 1-meter wide path open on both sides that was elevated about a meter above a canal. Riding a bike on a 1-meter path becomes much more difficult when the platform is elevated high above a dirty canal. Throw in periodic obstacles like trees and people, it was pretty nerve-racking. After one very, very, very close call with Erika and a walker on the path (we thought she was going into the drink) everyone made it out unscathed. After the initial nerves were quelled –when we were off the raised platform -- the ride was easy and we were treated to beautiful countryside, rice patties, local birds, a large water monitor lizard (1.5 meters) and great conversation with our guide. Again, if in Bangkok, “Spiceroads” bike tours is a nice way to spend an enjoyable day outside the city and away from the dreaded “touts”.
Now, a bit about the bad side of Bangkok – all the street hawkers are trying to take advantage of the travelers. We’re not used to having to haggle for everything and we felt quite naïve, as shown by our inability to speak the language and our propensity to look at maps in public places. We have now learned the hard way… no one is really trying to help. Do not trust a cheap Tuk-Tuk (a small scooter like taxi) driver to sell you a ride to “see the sights” – they will only take you to overpriced shops selling crap you don’t want. They will also lie through their teeth to get you into the Tuk-Tuk and will follow and pester you until you acquiesce. Do not trust the guy helping to arrange a long-boat ride on the river --the 1.5 hour ride at a “cheap price” is neither cheap nor 1.5 hours (but enjoyable none the less). Always force the taxi drivers to start the meter and always ask hotel staff for expected prices. Always arrange transport to and from the airport –a 200 Bhat (~ 25 Bhat per Aussie dollar) taxi for locals was 450 Bhat for us. This was cheap compared to the 1500 Bhat originally proffered by numerous drivers telling us it was a “cheap price”. Fear not… we are getting better at haggling and we are a bit more savvy with the locals. We are learning.
Finally, no discussion of Bangkok would be complete without a mention of the sleazy side. “Soi Cowboy” one of the more notorious Red Light districts is between our hotel and the closest subway station. We have walked through it at night a few times. The bright neon lights, and awkward interactions between young Thai girls and creepy white guys is almost amusing, though you always feel like a shower is in order after getting back to the hotel; but maybe that is also the heat, humidity and general grime of this crazy city.
Tomorrow we fly north to Chaing Mai. Elephants anyone?
No comments:
Post a Comment