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After seeing the wildlife in Sabah we undertook a physical challenge -- climbing Mount Kinabalu, the tallest peak in Southeast Asia. To get there we took a 28 minute flight from Sandakan to Kota Kinabalu in the western half of Sabah and a two-hour bus ride to the base of the mountain. Mt. Kinabalu is 4095 meters (13,435 ft) and stands high above the surrounding peaks. We got our accommodation squared away, paid the requisite climbing and park fees and ate a good dinner before settling down at the park headquarters for a night. The following morning we met our guide “Duin” (local guides are requisite for the climb) and the three of us set out for the first part of the ascent
The hike up Mt. Kinabalu is attempted (and often conquered) by many intrepid travelers, so the plan of attack is pretty well established. On the first morning, climbers hike from 1866 meters (6,122 ft) at headquarters (the base of the mountain) up to “base camp” (called Laban Rata or “LR”) at 3,270 meters (10,728 ft); it is about 2/3 of the way up the mountain. The ascent to LR is a 6.0 km hike and is essentially straight up a mix of rock and wooden stairs and tree roots. After arriving at LR the climbers rest, eat dinner and sleep in the dorm style rooms before waking up at 2am to start the 2.8 km summit hike to the top of the mountain in the dark. The goal is to summit as the sun rises above the peaks then start the climb down before the clouds set in on the peak.
With the help of Duin (who was an excellent guide) we followed this itinerary with great success. We were a little fast up to basecamp and completed the first leg in 3:40, well ahead of the normal 4-6 hours. The hike up was scenic and passed through rainforest, mossy forest and eventually the sparse and stunted trees near the tree line. Along the way we saw carnivorous pitcher plants (a.k.a. “monkey cups”) and some great views of the valley. At base camp we occupied time playing Gin Rummy, drinking tea, eating dinner (food is cooked by the staff and is quite good given the remote mountain location) and looking down on the clouds below. The following morning Duin got us moving at 3 am, expecting a relatively fast climb to the top. It was fun (and somewhat treacherous) climbing in the dark with just our headlights. Soon after leaving we started to run into other climbers and the path to the mountain peak was a line of single headlamps winding their way to the top. After 700 meters we passed the tree line and climbed through the one technical aspect of the ascent that required a rope line and a thin path over a rather steep drop-off. Once we got past that part it was just a long, steady walk up a granite slope for the next two hours. As we climbed, the weather cooled and the sun started to peak over the horizon. Finally we reached the last final push to the top. A steep climb over boulders to the summit and we got there just as the sun started to break the horizon; it was a bit cloudy, but still beautiful. With a handshake from Duin and some group pictures at the top, we had officially summitted the tallest peak between New Guinea and the Himalayas. The dramatic drop into Lowe’s Gully just next to the peak was slightly stomach-turning, but the views from the top were spectacular. At the summit the weather was frigid and the wind strong, but other than a bit of altitude sickness we were no worse for wear. It was amazing to sit above the clouds and feel like we were at the top of the world.
The way back down started off great—the descent from the summit to LR was much easier and more scenic. We had climbers high with a sense of accomplishment as we walked down the granite face towards LR for an 8am breakfast and a short nap. However, once we started the descent from LR to the bottom, the weather took a turn for the worse. It started to rain with 4km to go, and with 2.5 km left it started to pour. We were soaking wet and the path became very slippery so the climb down took a long time. By the end of the long walk to the bottom we were sopping wet and our joints and muscles ached. We were done, though, and it felt pretty good.
For the next three days our legs were tired and climbing up or down stairs hurt. But, Singapore and Australia were on the horizon.
As a side note, one of the most incredible things we witnessed on the hike was watching the ‘mountain porters’ carry ridiculously heavy loads up to the base camp. At LR everything had to be carried up as there was no other way to get goods to base camp. Porters were paid based on how many kilos they carried and some of them must have been carrying 30 or 40 kilos on their backs/heads. Duin told us they did this every day –bringing everything from food to liquid propane to linens up to LR, then coming back down with just as much weight in garbage. Some climbers even had their guides carry their backpacks, and some guides were carrying whole families’ backpacks. We thought that if you’re going to climb then you should have to carry your own bag…..
The hike up Mt. Kinabalu is attempted (and often conquered) by many intrepid travelers, so the plan of attack is pretty well established. On the first morning, climbers hike from 1866 meters (6,122 ft) at headquarters (the base of the mountain) up to “base camp” (called Laban Rata or “LR”) at 3,270 meters (10,728 ft); it is about 2/3 of the way up the mountain. The ascent to LR is a 6.0 km hike and is essentially straight up a mix of rock and wooden stairs and tree roots. After arriving at LR the climbers rest, eat dinner and sleep in the dorm style rooms before waking up at 2am to start the 2.8 km summit hike to the top of the mountain in the dark. The goal is to summit as the sun rises above the peaks then start the climb down before the clouds set in on the peak.
With the help of Duin (who was an excellent guide) we followed this itinerary with great success. We were a little fast up to basecamp and completed the first leg in 3:40, well ahead of the normal 4-6 hours. The hike up was scenic and passed through rainforest, mossy forest and eventually the sparse and stunted trees near the tree line. Along the way we saw carnivorous pitcher plants (a.k.a. “monkey cups”) and some great views of the valley. At base camp we occupied time playing Gin Rummy, drinking tea, eating dinner (food is cooked by the staff and is quite good given the remote mountain location) and looking down on the clouds below. The following morning Duin got us moving at 3 am, expecting a relatively fast climb to the top. It was fun (and somewhat treacherous) climbing in the dark with just our headlights. Soon after leaving we started to run into other climbers and the path to the mountain peak was a line of single headlamps winding their way to the top. After 700 meters we passed the tree line and climbed through the one technical aspect of the ascent that required a rope line and a thin path over a rather steep drop-off. Once we got past that part it was just a long, steady walk up a granite slope for the next two hours. As we climbed, the weather cooled and the sun started to peak over the horizon. Finally we reached the last final push to the top. A steep climb over boulders to the summit and we got there just as the sun started to break the horizon; it was a bit cloudy, but still beautiful. With a handshake from Duin and some group pictures at the top, we had officially summitted the tallest peak between New Guinea and the Himalayas. The dramatic drop into Lowe’s Gully just next to the peak was slightly stomach-turning, but the views from the top were spectacular. At the summit the weather was frigid and the wind strong, but other than a bit of altitude sickness we were no worse for wear. It was amazing to sit above the clouds and feel like we were at the top of the world.
The way back down started off great—the descent from the summit to LR was much easier and more scenic. We had climbers high with a sense of accomplishment as we walked down the granite face towards LR for an 8am breakfast and a short nap. However, once we started the descent from LR to the bottom, the weather took a turn for the worse. It started to rain with 4km to go, and with 2.5 km left it started to pour. We were soaking wet and the path became very slippery so the climb down took a long time. By the end of the long walk to the bottom we were sopping wet and our joints and muscles ached. We were done, though, and it felt pretty good.
For the next three days our legs were tired and climbing up or down stairs hurt. But, Singapore and Australia were on the horizon.
As a side note, one of the most incredible things we witnessed on the hike was watching the ‘mountain porters’ carry ridiculously heavy loads up to the base camp. At LR everything had to be carried up as there was no other way to get goods to base camp. Porters were paid based on how many kilos they carried and some of them must have been carrying 30 or 40 kilos on their backs/heads. Duin told us they did this every day –bringing everything from food to liquid propane to linens up to LR, then coming back down with just as much weight in garbage. Some climbers even had their guides carry their backpacks, and some guides were carrying whole families’ backpacks. We thought that if you’re going to climb then you should have to carry your own bag…..
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